For many, trend is at a crossroads: Some within the trade bemoan the dearth of inspiration and creativity, in addition to the diminishment of the couture market in favor of quick trend. Just in time, The Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology is giving us all a shot of perspective—and celebrating its 50th birthday—with a brand new set up, “Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT.”
Taken totally from the museum’s everlasting holdings, greater than 80 seems to be are on view from over 30 reveals, together with “Fashion and Surrealism, “The Corset” and “A Queer History of Fashion.” Museum director Valerie Steele, who oversaw the retrospective is, calls it “intelligent, innovative, and independent”
“Fashion curators have gotten more and more keen on exploring the historical past of accumulating and exhibiting trend,” she says. “[Exhibiting fashion] is important because no field can progress if it doesn’t know where it has been and why.”
Related: The Who, What, and Wear of New York Fashion Week 2019.
Steele believes the style trade is struggling “with the split between luxury and fast fashion.” Small impartial designers, usually those who push issues ahead, are caught within the center.
Below, take a look at her picks for essentially the most iconic outfits which have graced the Museum at F.I.T. over the previous half-century.
Paul Poiret Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
1. Paul Poiret, Persian fancy costume costume (1919).
“He is a genius designer who was forgotten after his death in the 1930s.”
Adrian Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
2. Adrian costume for Greta Garbo in Camille (1936).
“This dress was featured in the 1971 live fashion show at FIT. Hello, Hollywood!”
Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
3. Charles James, red silk Sirene costume (1940). Donated by Doris Duke and Featured within the 1987 FIT exhibit “Fashion & Surrealism.” “Charles James is one of America’s greatest designers. ‘Fashion & Surrealism’ was also the first show that really looked at fashion as art.”
Madeleine Vionnet Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
4. Madeleine Vionnet, cream bias-cut silk costume (1930).
“Madeleine created body worshipping dresses that have continued to influence designers such as Halston,” says Steele. “This explicit costume was featured within the ‘3 Women’ exhibition, which spotlighted three ladies who actually created liberating garments for different ladies.”
Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
5. Clare McCarell, white pique costume (1951).
“Clare McCarell was the so-called creator of American sportswear, which started, predominantly in New York, in the 1940s and 1950s. These were clothes that were comfortable and wearable and worn by young, forward-thinking women.”
Rei Kawakubo Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
6. Rei Kawakubo for CDG, high and skirt (1983).
“This was featured in 1987’s ‘3 Women’ exhibition, which explored female designers who created women-friendly clothes.”
Halston Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
7. Halston, off-white hammered silk satin night costume (1976).
Featured within the 1991 “Halston: Absolute Modernism” exhibition and 2015’s “YSL + Halson: Fashioning the 70s'” – “Two fantastic shows for fashion connoisseurs,” says Steele.
Madame Gres Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
8. Madame Gres, pleated navy silk jersey night costume (1971).
“This was a gift of Mica Ertegan and was featured in the 2008 “Madame Gres: Sphinx of Fashion” exhibition. Madame Gres was considered one of historical past’s biggest trend designers.”
Thierry Mugler Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
9. Thierry Mugler, vampire costume (1981).
Featured in ‘Gothic: Dark Glamour” (2008). “An attractive scary costume in a horny, scary, good exhibition about subculture and elegance.”
Issey Miyake Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
10. Issey Miyake, red plastic bustier (1983).
Featured in “The Corset: Fashioning the Body” (2000). “It was a present about essentially the most controversial garment in trend historical past,” says Steele. “Why did ladies put on corsets for 400 years? They by no means stopped—they only internalized corsetry by way of weight loss plan and train.”
Junya Watanabe Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
11. Junya Watanabe, denim costume (2002).
“The costume was featured in “Japan Fashion Now” (2010) and likewise in our “Denim” exhibition—completely avant-garde Japanese trend.”
Vivienne Tam Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
12. Vivienne Tam, Mao costume (1995).
“This Vivienne Tam costume has grow to be iconic as a result of its traits had been so hanging in a type of Pop Art approach. It was featured in “China Chic” (1999) and once more within the large China present at The Metropolitan Museum of Art a number of years in the past. The costume contains a very compelling use of visible imagery on clothes. And in fact, Vivienne Tam Mao was one of many first Chinese-American designers to grow to be internationally recognized.”
Charles James Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
13. Charles James, Tree costume (1955).
“This was featured in our “American Beauty” (2010) exhibition.”
H. Naoto Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
14. H. Naoto, Gothic Lolita ensemble (2008-09).
It was featured in “Japan Fashion Now” (2011)—the Japanese subcultural model is so unimaginable.”
Alexander McQueen Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
15. Alexander McQueen, Plato’s Atlantis costume (2010).
“This is from Alexander McQueen’s last completed collection, which was so unearthly and powerful.”
Gianni Versace Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
16. Gianni Versace, Marilyn Monroe go well with (1991).
Featured in “A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk” (2013). “Versace was one of the first designers that was openly gay. Andy Warhol also inspired the print on this suit.”
Yves Saint Laurent Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
17. YSL, pinstriped pant go well with (1967).
“This go well with is Also from “A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk” (2013). The first exhibition about LGBTQ affect on trend. Tim Gunn calls it ‘groundbreaking’.”
Alexander McQueen Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
18. Alexander McQueen, velvet night robe with gold bugle beads (2007).
“This dress was featured in “Fairy Tale Fashion” (2016) — a magical show. Such a beautiful dress and one of our favorite McQueen’s in the collection. We featured it because the beading replicates long, blond hair. We positioned the gown in a section about Rapunzel and put it in front of a textile that portrayed long, blond hair.”
Prada Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
19. Prada, fairy ensemble (2008).
Featured in “Fairy Tale Fashion” (2016). “We requested this outfit specifically from Prada. It was a very powerful look from that collection. As an aside, I also happened to wear a very similar ensemble for a photo shoot with Vogue about artistic couples in New York that featured me and my husband.”
Commes des Garcons Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
20. Commes des Garcons ensemble with red patent leather-based hooded cape (2015).
Featured in “Fairy Tale Fashion” (2016). “Such a genius outfit! Anyone who sees it is completely taken away. As soon as we saw it we requested to buy it. We placed it next to a real Little Red Riding Hood from the 18th century.”
Lisa Folawiyo Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
21. Lisa Folawiyo costume (2015).
Featured in each “Global Fashion Capitals” (2015) and in “Black Fashion Designers” (2017).
Christian Louboutin Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
22. Christian Louboutin, fetish ballerina footwear (2007).
“This unique show was featured in “Shoe Obsession” (2013), “which examined our cultures ever-growing fascination with extravagant and trendy footwear.”
Stephen Jones Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
23. Stephen Jones for Christian Dio,r high fashion corset hat (2003).
“Jones has made many hats for Dior’s couture. Such a witty, surreal trope.”
Ric Owens Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
24. Rick Owens, batwing jacket ensemble (2006).
“This was featured in “Gothic: Dark Glamour” (2008) which was the primary exhibition dedicated to the gothic model in trend.”
Lucile Courtesy of The Museum at FIT
25. Lucile go well with (1913).
“This costume was featured in “Designing the It Girl” (2005), a collaboration with FIT’s Graduate School. Lucile is a cult favourite amongst trend connoisseurs—we’ve a small however superb assortment of Lucile. Every 12 months, we train a course at FIT on the best way to placed on a museum-quality exhibition and Lucile’s clothes have been used as nice examples.”
“Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT” runs by way of April 20.